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    ECU Repairs:

    Updated 07/06/02

    Mitsubishi used less than top quality ECU Capacitors for several Years.
    If you have a 91-93 car the capacitors in the ECU are at high risk of failure.
    94 and later cars have different capacitors and after selling amost 100 sets of
    capacitor not one customer reported problems with a 94 or newer car. About 10%
    of the 91-93 ECUS had capacitors that showed signs of leaking. The remaining ECUs
    only had capacitors changed as a safety precaution.

    If the Capacitors go bad the ECU will start acting funny and eventually burn
    out completely. Rebuilt ECUs are from $250-$450 but only if one is
    avialable most places do not actaully rebuild yours they just send you another
    ECU. Investigate the ECU reapir place beacuse many do not repair ECUs at all
    thye just give you a used ECU and a warranty. This is because so many mechanics
    do not understand electronic so they just replace parts until the car works.
    Most defective ECUs sent to repair shops are actually good, so some repair shops
    inspect the ECU and if it is good they sell it to you as "repaired" with out
    actually doing anything to them.


    Complete list of ECU Part Numbers
    I mined the dealer parts program to get EVERY ECU for domestic 3000GT and Stealths.
    Use this list to make sure you don't get the wrong ECU.
    For a complete list of ECU Part Numbers Click here!:

    Instructions on how to do the actual repair
    TechnoMotive publishes great instructions on how replace Capacitors on 1st Gen DSM ECUs.
    3000GT/Stealh ECU can use exact same parts and instructions.
    http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm

    Technomotive gives the following warning signs for Bad capacitors in ECU.

    1. A rapid clicking or chattering from under the dash. Usually accompanied with
      the engine stalling or losing power during the noise. This is the microcontroller
      going into reset over and over and over again due to a bad power supply. Every
      time it resets, it will turn the fuel pump relay on and off. This could also be
      a bad fuel pump relay, but not usually.
    2. An usual smell that seems to come from the center console. Especially if i
      smells like rotten seafood. Consider that it could also be your heater fan motor,
      unless accompanied with a power loss or stalling.
    3. Your car is older than seven years and sees a lot of extreme temperature
      transitions. If you experience either of the first two problems above, act
      on them as soon as possible. Even though your car may still be drivable, the
      longer you let the problem go the more likely you will end up with a hole
      in your ECU's PC board or with several blown components on the board. Then you
      will have to dig a unit up in the junkyard or buy a new one from Mitsubishi
      for $1100.

    Digikeys sells the capacitors but charges around $10 for shipping and handling.
    I used to sell capacitor sets but it took up too much of my time.
    This thread has lots of great information and feedback from people who repaired thier own ECUs.
    3si Thread about Capacitor replacement
    See picture below for ECU location. The 3 yellow connectors used be hooked to ECU.
    I had the ECU out at time of this picture.

    ECULocation3

    ECU Removal Instructions
    To remove your ECU go to Jeff Lucius' webpage listed below. He has excellent directions.
    ECU Removal:

    Feedback from some people who have replaced Capacitors
    .
    Please note: were emails have been cut down to save space I added periods... :

    Shawn Keren:


    .....I installed them on Saturday, two of the old ones had leaked a
    little. The whole thing took about 1-1/2 hours (the old caps didn't want to come
    out) and was a complete success..... it was mainly preventive, but I had noticed
    a couple of problems that may or may not have anything to do with the ECU, figured
    that it couldn't hurt though. I think that it actually may have gotten rid of a
    warm idle problem, but only time will tell with that because it was very sporadic.

    AL3k:

    I Just installed the caps.. not too hard.. I managed to do it all within 2 hours..
    twas my first time desoldering anything. Wanted to be extra careful not to screw
    up. Installing the caps took me 5 min.

    noticable difference? HELL YES!

    no more funky idle
    no more hesitation, pulls like a SOB like it should
    overall.. it solved a bunch of the "little" problems the car had.
    looking at the old caps, yeah they were starting to leak, underneath the caps
    which is sometimes hard to see was this brownish goo. not too much, but enough
    to make me worry. Fortunately the crap didnt eat thru the pcb or do any serious
    damage.

    I would have to recommend this to anyone with minor problems that they cant get
    I have a 91 stealth and the caps NEEDED to be replaced.. Id say if your over
    say the 7 year mark, pull your ecu and give it a good look to see what condition
    your caps are in.



    Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 10:47:18 -0600
    From: "Mark Wendlandt"
    Subject: RE: Team3S: ECU problems, part II

    As has been discussed, leaking electrolyte is one of the problems with
    aluminum electrolytic caps. It is not a mitsu specific problem! They use a
    rubber-type seal on the bottom of the cap that ages with time/heat, etc. and
    will allow the electrolyte to leak out on to the PWB. This electrolyte is a
    salt solution. Everything will evaporate except the salt which is very
    corrosive and conductive. This is where we start to have problems. We can
    get shorts but also large voltage spikes that can damage ecu components
    because of the lack of filtering.


    As and electrical engineer for Honeywell, we cannot design aluminum
    electrolytic caps into any military products because of their shelf life
    requirements(i.e avionics sitting on the shelf for many years before needing
    to be used during a time of war...)

    One solution might be a solid tantalum cap, but you might have to use more
    than one tantalum to replace one electrolytic because of voltage/capacitance
    requirements. You get the most bang for the bug with aluminum electrolytics
    when talking about voltage, capacitance and package size.

    Do a google search on leaking aluminum electrolytic capacitor and you will
    get hundreds of pages on the subject(big problem on older stereo
    receivers/amps.)

    Just replace them with new aluminum electrolytics and you will get another
    7+ years of service.(I've got 10+ on my '91 with original caps). It is
    something that we all have to live with from VCRs to Camcorders to our
    auto's ECU!!

    Mark Wendlandt
    '91RT/TT



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